I was only there for 24 hours, but I could easily have stayed for the weekend. Seligenstadt, a small town on the Main River about 30 minutes from Frankfurt, is one of the most charming places I have discovered in Germany.
It has a surprisingly large Altstadt full of colourful half-timbered houses, a monastery with beautiful gardens, cosy squares, delicious ice cream and a Saturday market where the locals start drinking wine before noon. And all this without the crowds of classics such as Heidelberg or Rothenburg.
Below, I share my 15 favourite things to do in Seligenstadt – from historical facts to culinary recommendations and hidden corners. Ideal for a day trip, but even better for a weekend getaway.
1. Stroll through the colourful Altstadt
The Altstadt of Seligenstadt is surprisingly large and well preserved. You can walk among dozens of half-timbered houses, cobbled streets, small squares and facades full of details. It feels a bit like walking through an open-air museum!
What I really liked was that many houses have signs explaining who used to live there or what the building once was. This way, you can learn all about the history of the city as you walk around, without having to follow a guide. So be sure to keep an eye out for signs on the facades of half-timbered houses!
2. Spot the oldest building in town
On the edge of the town centre, you will find the Steinhaus, built in 1188 – the oldest stone building in Seligenstadt. It was built by the Romans (or at least on Roman foundations) and served as the town administration’s residence for centuries.
Today, you can even get married there – not that I have any immediate plans to do so, but it is a beautiful location if you love history. Even if you are just passing by, it is a nice stop: you will recognise it immediately by its thick walls and simple, robust style.
Today, there is a modern staircase leading to the entrance, but in the past, people used a ladder to climb up. This was removed at night so that no one could steal the city’s treasures.
3. Visit the second oldest half-timbered house in the region
Every village in the region competes for some title indicating that they have the “oldest” half-timbered house. Seligenstadt is no exception! In the town, you will find a half-timbered house dating from 1327, which now serves as an art gallery. It is not only one of the oldest houses in Seligenstadt, but also the second oldest half-timbered house in the entire region.
You will find it in a side street off the town centre, and the façade alone is worth seeing. Think wooden beams, crooked lines and that typical half-timbered feel that Germany is so famous for. Inside, you can take a look at the gallery, although I myself was particularly taken with the exterior. Photogenic? Absolutely!
4. Look up at the house of the abbot’s driver
In Seligenstadt, you sometimes come across places that make you think: huh, what? This is also the case with this 16th-century house, which once belonged to the abbot’s personal driver. Yes, even the spiritual leader of the monastery had himself driven around in style.
At first glance, the building itself is no more striking than other half-timbered houses, but the story behind it makes it interesting. It also says something about how powerful and wealthy the abbey used to be – if even the abbot’s chauffeur was given his own house in the centre of town.
So don’t just walk past it, but take a moment to look up!
5. Walk under the Steinheimer Tor
The Steinheimer Tor is the only remaining city gate in Seligenstadt, and you will easily pass it when you walk into the centre from the car park on the outskirts or one of the access roads.
It is not a huge gate, but it is a beautiful part of the old city skyline. Especially in the soft evening light, it is a nice place to stop for a photo or just to imagine what the city used to look like, with city walls and watchtowers.
Tip: if you are coming by car, drive into the city via this side – it is much more atmospheric than the main road.
6. Wander around the abbey gardens
What surprised me most in Seligenstadt? Not the half-timbered houses, but the abbey gardens! This green oasis is located just behind the old abbey and is completely open to the public every day until 8 p.m. You can simply walk in and wander around for as long as you like.
The gardens have been completely restored to their former appearance, when the Benedictine monks grew their own herbs, fruit and flowers here. Today, you can see an old herb garden with medicinal plants, trees of specially replanted historical apple and pear varieties, and many other old plant species that the monks used to grow in their garden.
The garden also has a cosy café with a view of the greenery. It is run by a social project that employs people who have difficulty finding work elsewhere. A great initiative and a nice place for a coffee or a cold drink.
Tip: every day, a cart is placed outside with the day’s harvest. For a small contribution, you can buy something local from the garden. When I visited, it was red beets!
7. Visit the monastery with a guide
Would you like to see inside the abbey? You can, but only on a guided tour. During such a tour, you will see the Imperial Chamber and learn more about how the monks used to live, work and pray here.
The guide will also explain how important Seligenstadt was as a place of pilgrimage. Its founder, Einhard (a confidant of Charlemagne), brought relics with him, which made the town an important religious site in the region. Every year around the second Sunday in June, this is commemorated during the Pilgrims’ Festival.
8. Admire the Basilica of Seligenstadt
You can’t miss it: the Basilica of Seligenstadt dominates the townscape and is one of the most important historical buildings in the town. It is part of the old monastery complex and was built in its current form in the 9th century, on the initiative of Einhard (who is also buried in the church, together with his wife Emma).
The interior of the basilica is fairly austere, but still impressive, with Romanesque columns, a sleek nave and some well-preserved works of art. Einhard’s tomb is also located there, but unfortunately it is not open to the general public.
9. Cross the Main River by ferry
In need of a different perspective? Take the ferry across the Main River. For a small fee (bring cash!), you can cross the river and immediately enjoy a beautiful view of the abbey, the gardens, and the Seligenstadt city skyline.
The crossing takes less than a minute, but it is definitely worth it, especially in sunny weather or in the early evening.
10. Dangle your legs on a Bambelbank
Along the banks of the Main River, there are Bambelbanken – special high wooden benches designed so that you can dangle your legs while looking at the water. Apparently, the people in this region even have a word for it. Just sit, look and swing your legs. Sometimes that’s all you need!
You’ll find these benches on the banks of the river, on both sides right next to the ferry crossing.
11. Find the historic fishermen’s bench
On the riverbank stands a seemingly ordinary covered wooden bench, but it has an interesting story behind it. In the 17th century, fishermen would sit here waiting for their sons to return from the Main. And as is often the case, with each return, the stories about the catch became just a little more heroic than the last.
It is also known as the “bench of powerful tales” – which sums it up nicely. If you come across it during your walk along the water, take a seat. Maybe you’ll come up with something spectacular to tell yourself.
12. Try local specialities
Want to try something typical of the region? Then Gasthof zum Riesen is the place to be. This traditional restaurant in the centre of Seligenstadt serves weisswurst with green sauce – a real classic in Hesse and the Frankfurt region.
But that’s not all you’ll find on the menu here. A few other specialities you should definitely try:
- Handkäse mit Musik: sour cheese in vinegar with onion – sounds unusual, but is loved by locals.
- Frankfurter Schnitzel: a schnitzel with (yes) that same fresh green sauce.
- Kreppel: a type of sweet pastry that is mainly eaten during Rosenmontag (carnival). You can find this at the local bakery.
Expect a traditional bistro with a sun terrace on the market square in Seligenstadt!
13. Or go for the best pizza of your life
Prefer something less German, but still incredibly delicious? Then go to Hollis Trattoria. This relatively new restaurant specialises in Neapolitan pizzas, and honestly, this was perhaps the best pizza I’ve ever had.
They have a nice terrace right next to the abbey, with a beautiful view of the Seligenstadt basilica. I can’t recommend this place highly enough!
14. Get an ice cream at one of the many ice cream parlours
If you like to eat ice cream while walking – and who doesn’t? – Seligenstadt is the place to be. There are a remarkable number of ice cream parlours scattered throughout the centre, often with a small terrace or a counter where you can quickly grab something to go.
Which one is really the best? Hard to say. I tried one near the old city gate (Eiscafé Maintor), and it was great. But actually, every parlour looked good. Perfect for a sweet break during your city walk.
15. Visit the Saturday market on the square
On Saturday mornings, Seligenstadt’s market square turns into a lively meeting place. Local farmers and traders sell vegetables, fruit, cheese, meat and flowers – but why should you really be here? It’s the aperitif stands!
Many locals come here not only to shop, but also to catch up with friends over a glass of wine, sparkling wine or apple spritzer. By 11 a.m., the square is already full of people enjoying their Saturday morning. As a visitor, you can stroll among them and immediately feel part of village life.
Tip: the tourist office is also located on the square. Feel free to pop in for additional information, walking maps or a small souvenir.
Staying overnight in Seligenstadt
I stayed just outside Seligenstadt, at Landgasthof Neubauer – Genussreich. It is a rural accommodation with comfortable rooms, its own restaurant and a delicious breakfast.
In the evening, you specify what you would like to eat, and the next morning, everything is freshly prepared with care. It is quite delicious, and such a personal approach is not often seen anymore. The location is about a 20-minute walk from the centre, so you can enjoy a peaceful stay while still being within walking distance of everything.
Prefer to be closer to the centre? Then take a look at one of these accommodations:
Conclusion
I was only there for 24 hours, but I could easily have stayed longer. In fact, I secretly regret not staying longer. I would return in a heartbeat!
Whether you make it a stopover like I did or spend a whole weekend there, Seligenstadt is definitely worth a visit! And if you only have time for one thing? Then just take a walk through the abbey gardens and have a glass of wine at the Saturday market. Sometimes that’s all you need.
Have you visited Seligenstadt yourself and do you have any tips? Feel free to leave them in the comments below!
