You probably know them: the picturesque villages with half-timbered houses, a beautiful fountain in the market square and plenty of terraces where you can enjoy a German Weisses Bier or Schnitzel. These are exactly the villages I went looking for in Southwest Germany around the Black Forest in Baden-Württemberg. And this is the result! A Black Forest road trip along the most beautiful villages in southern Germany.
Practical tips:
Transport
Although you can find a train station in every village, you are just a little bit faster by car. Do you prefer public transport? Then take the train from Belgium to Freiburg and travel from there to the various villages. You can always check train times on the Deutsche Bahn app.
Tip: when you book a hotel, you get a guest card that allows you to use public transport for free in the region. So there is no need to pay extra for a train or bus ticket. Super convenient!
Zeigmal App
This road trip consists of four stops, but would you like to see more picturesque villages? Then download the Zeigmal App. This app collects all information on the most beautiful Black Forest villages. A handy map shows where you can pass through while explaining more about the village itself and what there is to visit. Moreover, you can collect stamps in each village. Do you have all the stamps? Then you might win a trip!
My 4 day Black Forest road trip itinerary
Stop 1: Waldkirch
My road trip starts in cosy Waldkirch, a small town on the edge of the Black Forest, half an hour from Freiburg. You immediately feel that typical German charm here, with half-timbered houses, vineyards nearby AND a good dose of nature. Surrounded by the hills that herald the Alps, it is a wonderful place to start this road trip.
What makes Waldkirch really special? The town has been known for its artisanal barrel organs for centuries. But there is much more to discover:
Visit the Kastelburg
The Kastelburg towers high above Waldkirch and is the place for those who love a touch of history with a spectacular view to go with it. You can reach this ruin of a 13th-century castle via a short but tough trail – also called the Knight’s Hiking Trail – that starts at the bottom of the hill. Once at the top, you are rewarded with a panoramic view of Waldkirch, the surrounding forests and even the foothills of the Black Forest.
What makes the visit even more unique is a guided tour with Mr and Mrs Kern. During different periods of the year, they give historical tours of the castle and town in traditional attire. Find the dates for the tours at Waldkirch’s tourist office.
Go wine tasting at Winery Moosmann
At Weingut Moosmann in Waldkirch, you don’t just taste wine, you experience the whole story behind it. During our stop, we were given a tour by the man of the house through the vineyards and cellars of this family estate, which has been run with passion for generations. Among the vines and wooden barrels, you will discover how their quality wines come to life. With 200,000 litres of wine a year, it is one of the larger regional wineries.
My personal favourite? The Pinot Rosé Winzersekt – a fresh, fruity bubble from the grape variety grown here. The tasting afterwards introduced us to different styles. A delicious and enjoyable start to the road trip!
Visit the Black Forest Zoo
The Schwarzwaldzoo in Waldkirch is a small-scale zoo where you mainly meet indigenous Black Forest species, such as ibex, owls and even a lynx. What makes this place extra special? The zoo is run entirely by volunteers who put their heart and soul into animal welfare. A fun short stop on the way to the treetop trail!
Walk through the treetops
The Baumkronenweg in Waldkirch is an absolute must for those who love spectacular views and a brisk walk through nature. Because yes, you have to be prepared for it. After all, you first hike 800 metres all the way to the top of a hill. At 23 metres, you then follow a path between the treetops of the Black Forest, with beautiful views of the valley and the village of Waldkirch along the way.
But the real highlight? The 190-metre tube slide – the longest in Europe! Request a slide mat at the ticket office, settle in securely before setting off and whiz down at lightning speed. Adrenaline rush guaranteed!
Tip: leave your car in the car park of the Schwarzwaldzoo and leave from there to the Baumkronenweg entrance.
Stay at Hotel Löwen
During my stay in Waldkirch, I stayed at Hotel & Gasthaus Löwen, a 10-minute drive from the centre of Waldkirch. The rooms are classically German and offer a cosy terrace with views of the surrounding hills. In the morning, we were treated to a rich breakfast buffet, including a selection of local cheeses from the region. There is free car parking.
Tip: In the evening, the restaurant serves delicious local dishes. I tasted a top schnitzel with fries there (how could it be otherwise!). Be sure to book your table at reception, as the restaurant is popular among locals.
Stop 2: Calw
Calw is a charming town in the north of the Black Forest, known as the birthplace of writer Hermann Hesse.You stroll among half-timbered houses, cobbled streets and bridges over the river Nagold – a postcard picture. The ideal second stop on a road trip through the most beautiful villages of the Black Forest!
Go hiking with a view of the village
If you are looking for a short but atmospheric hike in Calw, the ‘Kurze Runde durch den Calwer Stadtwald’ comes highly recommended. This route of about 2.7 km takes you through Calw’s quiet town forest, where you can escape from the hustle and bustle and enjoy nature for a while.
The walk starts in the Stadtgarten. From there, you dive into the forest, where the paths take you past places like the Gimpelstein and the historic Calwer Schafott. Along the way, you’ll also pass the Steinerne Bank, a perfect place to take a break and enjoy the surroundings. Afterwards, be sure to finish at Caféhäusle for a well-deserved break!
Taste a waffle at Caféhäusle
A place where I could stay for a whole day? That’s Caféhäusle in Calw. On the terrace, you have a lovely view over the historic centre and when the sun shines, you just don’t want to leave. I sampled an apple and caramel waffle there – their speciality and really delicious (I could have had another one in no time!). By the way, they also serve locally made ice cream, so that’s also highly recommended. Perfect for a sweet break after the walk!
Stroll through the city centre
Of course, in such a charming town, you have to take a stroll through the city centre. With its more than 200 colourful half-timbered houses from the 17th century, this is also exceptionally beautiful! Stroll around the central market square surrounded by beautiful facades, including the birthplace of Hermann Hesse and the historic town hall. A walk across the Nikolaus Bridge, with its Gothic Nikolaus Chapel from the 14th century, offers great views over the river Nagold and the surrounding buildings.
Stop 3: Bad Liebenzell
As a spa town, Bad Liebenzell definitely deserves its place as a stop on this road trip. Located along the river Nagold, it is known for its thermal baths – the Paracelsus-Therme is the place to relax completely. But those who like to get out into nature are also in the right place with hiking and cycling routes through the green landscape.
Stroll through the Spa Gardens
Bad Liebenzell’s Kurpark is a lovely place to escape the hustle and bustle. With its centuries-old linden avenue, colourful flowerbeds and the soothing Kurpark pond, it is the perfect setting for a relaxing stroll or a picnic in the sunshine. Extra special is the Apothekergarten, where you will discover more than 160 medicinal plants.
The park is also the entrance to the Paracelcus Therme, classic German thermal baths where you can enjoy numerous saunas and swimming pools. Are you staying in the village? Then get an extra discount on an entrance ticket with the guest pass!
Cycle along the water to Pforzheim
The lifeline of Bad Liebenzell and its thermal springs is the river Nagold. It flows all the way from the heart of the Black Forest to Pforzheim. A sample of beautiful nature and at once an ideal cycling route! I hired (electric) bikes from Radfabrik Bad Liebenzell and cycled all the way to Pforzheim before taking the train back to our starting point.
On the way, you follow the flow of the river – downstream, by the way, so without too many climbs. You pass through fields and forests, always along the bed of the Nagold. Pforzheim itself is not immediately super romantic so there you just take the train back to Bad Liebenzell. You can find the full cycle route here.
Tip: are you staying at a hotel in the region? Then ask for the region pass that allows you to use all public transport for free during your stay. Plus, you also get discounts on lots of local activities. Taking bikes on the train is free during the weekend.
Have dinner at Oscars1415 restaurant
I dined at restaurant Oscars1415, a stylish restaurant where you can sample more refined German and international cuisine. Definitely highly recommended if you’re looking for an alternative to the sometimes gigantic schnitzels!
Stay at Hotel Koch
I didn’t stay at the OSCARS Hotel 1415 near the restaurant, but at Hotel Koch, a family-run hotel in the centre of Bad Liebenzell. On arrival, we were treated to a welcome drink, and the rooms are quite cosy, but what surprised me most was the insane breakfast! A whole slew of choices from freshly made shrimp salads to smoothies, local cakes and charcuterie. Absolutely fantastic!
Stop 4: Bretten
Stroll through the town centre
The village of Bretten was not originally on my itinerary, but after consulting the Zeigmal App, I saw that this cosy spot was on our route. So why not take a short stop then?
The historic centre is a picture: colourful half-timbered houses, cosy squares and medieval towers like the Pfeiferturm and the Simmelturm. Every year, the city comes alive during the Peter-und-Paul-Fest, a grand medieval festival with parades, encampments and more than 3,000 costumed participants.
I strolled around this picturesque centre for a while, definitely worth a stop!
Tip: en route to Bretten, I spontaneously stopped at a small brasserie and guesthouse for lunch called Gasthof Kupferhammer. Google told me that they served ‘really typical German cuisine’ here and that turned out to be absolutely true!
Stop 5: Mosbach
The last stop of the road trip was Mosbach, officially perhaps no longer part of the Black Forest but definitely worth a visit! Instead of the Black Forest you’ll find the start of the Odenwald here. The historic centre looks like it came straight out of a fairy tale and the many festivals and markets bring the town to life.
Hike through the forests on Henschelberg
No better start than a brisk walk through the forests on Henschelberg. You hike pretty much around the hill along forest paths and descend again with spectacular views of the city centre and surrounding districts. The walk is called M4, and is about 4.5 km long.
Be sure to stop by the tourist office for a map of Mosbach where you’ll find even more great hiking trails!
Visit the smallest half-timbered house in town
Mosbach is really well known for its authentic half-timbered houses, and the smallest house in town is definitely part of it. Haus Kickelhain was occupied until a few decades ago, until the town bought it up and turned it into a veritable museum. At 26m2, it is the smallest half-timbered house in town. You can visit it freely during opening hours on Wednesday and Sunday afternoons from April to October.
Stroll through the historic centre
But there is much more to see in Mosbach! Be sure to check out the places below:
- BLUMENkind – this flower shop is located in the town’s oldest cottage, dating back to the 15th century.
- Synagogenplatz – a symbolic place for many Jews who had to flee or were sent to concentration camps during World War II. Once home to a synagogue that was set on fire, today it is a memorial site.
- The old castle – the former landlord of Mosbach lived in a castle at the highest point of the town. The castle is still there, albeit in a slightly more modern form. Today it is an ordinary residential house but you can still go and see the outside.
- Kiwwelschisserbrunnen fountain – this fountain runs water from high up in the town along gullies all the way to the river Elz. Kiwwel Schissers is the nickname for the inhabitants of Mosbach, which loosely translates to mean something like barrel shoppers. Farmers used to collect their excrement in a barrel to fertilise the fields once a week.
- The church – or more correctly, 2 churches! The original Protestant church was split in two centuries ago to make way for a Catholic church as well. This feud between the monarch and the people led to the church being split into two parts to this day. So be sure to go inside!
Take part in a local festival or market
Mosbach is known for its many festivals and markets. I was there at the time of the Frühlingfest, or spring festival. Fairground through the streets, performances in the market square and numerous food and drink stalls graced the town. But similar festivals are also organised in summer and autumn.
In addition, a local market also takes place every 4 weeks with a different theme each month. In spring these are flowers, in autumn pumpkins. You can find an overview of all activities in the city on the tourist board’s website.
Taste the delicacies at Restaurant Ludwig
Feel like having something other than schnitzel at the end of your road trip? Then Restaurant Ludwig is the place to be. Here you will taste seasonal dishes with a wide selection of vegetarian alternatives. Moreover, it is also the perfect place to enjoy a terrace in the sun with a refreshing drink in your hand!
Have lunch at Mosbacher Brauhaus
Traditional food, in turn, can be found at Mosbach Brewery. It is a 5-minute walk from the city centre. You can have lunch on the terrace of their Biergarten or inside the old brewery, surrounded by cool trees. Definitely recommended for traditional German food!
Stay at Hotel Lamm
In Mosbach, I stayed in the city centre at Hotel Lamm. And yes, you guessed the name correctly, behind the reception you will find their collection of plush lambs! The rooms are spacious and breakfast offers plenty of choice. Moreover, the location couldn’t be better: right in the middle of the old town centre!
So, Mosbach was my last stop before I drove back to Belgium. Do you have any tips of your own for beautiful Black Forest villages that should be added to this road trip? Then let me know in the comments below! I look forward to reading your tips.
