Fancy a mini adventure in your own country? I set off on my own in a campervan and spent five days driving through the Belgian Ardennes. Travelling alone? Not scary at all! On the contrary, it was one of the most liberating experiences ever. Waking up and going to sleep every day to the rhythm of nature and the birds singing… what more could you want?
During this road trip, I visited some hidden gems in the Belgian Ardennes. Think of an abandoned train station, a flooded quarry and the most beautiful viewpoint in Belgium. Each and every one of them is a unique experience that will blow you away. Below, I’m happy to share my itinerary with you, including where I stayed!
Practical overview
🚐 Transport: converted van rented through Goboony
🕓 Duration: 5 days
🌍 Region: Belgian Ardennes (including German-speaking Belgium)
🛏️ Accommodation: on private fields, car parks and creative spots – most booked through Campspace
🥾 Activities: castles, ruins, hikes & viewpoints
Day 1: The first kilometres & a blue secret
My road trip started in Kruisem, where I picked up my rented camper van via Goboony. The owners of the van gave me a thorough explanation on the spot and helped me check in via the Goboony app. Everything went smoothly, but I admit… it took some getting used to when I got behind the wheel of that big bus. Especially because it was a manual transmission, and I rarely shift gears manually anymore. Slightly scary, but also: let’s gooo!
My plan was to drive to Dinant and spend the night there, but on the way I discovered a place I wouldn’t have wanted to miss:
Carrière de Pont-à-Nôle – clear blue water in Belgium?
Near Charleroi lies an abandoned quarry that has since filled with water: Carrière de Pont-à-Nôle. What makes this place so special? The water is intensely blue — almost tropical. This is perhaps the bluest water I have ever seen in Belgium. Officially, you are not allowed to come here (it is technically private), but it is still a popular spot with local young people. They spend hours at the “beach” on weekends and in the evenings. Please note that swimming is prohibited, and I would not want to risk it.
Overnight stay: Le Moulin de l’Hermeton
After that unexpected stop, I drove on to Le Moulin de l’Hermeton, a beautiful spot on a small river where you can park your camper van. It is a private meadow that is rented out to travellers looking for peace and nature. No facilities (just a toilet and a power socket to charge your smartphone), no crowds, but a magical place to end your first evening.
Tip: I booked most of my overnight stays on Campspace. Owners of meadows or parking lots open their grounds to campers. Sometimes in the middle of nowhere, sometimes with a toilet and hot water. An overnight stay costs an average of €20.
Day 2: ruins and castles
After my first night in nature, I woke up to the sound of birds singing. No lie (and somewhat unexpected), I slept incredibly well and straight through! The outdoor shower ensured a fresh start to the day — yes, just showering under the trees with cold water — and with a simple breakfast in the sunshine, I started day 2 at my leisure.
Ruins of Montaigle — my favourite in Belgium
Honestly? These are without a doubt my favourite ruins in Belgium. The Château Fort de Montaigle is hidden in the greenery, on a rock above a river, and the whole place has something magical about it. You walk between collapsed towers, climb stairs and have a beautiful view of the valley from various points. At the entrance, you get a leaflet with all the information. Don’t forget to test the echo of the well!
What I particularly liked: the site is run entirely by volunteers. They are happy to tell you more about the history of this medieval place, and your visit also supports its maintenance. Not many people know about this place, so it is organised on a very small scale.
Vêves Castle – fairy tales really do exist
If you’ve ever wanted to walk around a fairytale castle, now is the time. Château de Vêves is located on a hill, is perfectly symmetrical, with round towers — everything is just right. And did you know that this castle has been in the hands of the same family for over 800 years? They still have private quarters there and come to stay from time to time.
Inside, you really feel like you’re in another world. Children can dress up as knights or princesses, and even as an adult, you can let yourself be carried away. During your visit, you walk through the different rooms of the castle as they were furnished centuries ago by the owners. At the bottom of the castle, there is a small terrace where you can taste delicious local waffles. Small detail, big happiness!
Spending the night at Les Ateliers Gerny
My sleeping place for that night was once again something very special: Les Ateliers Gerny, booked through Campspace. You park in the garden next to the studio. Here there are various rooms where people work on their art, and sometimes workshops are organised.
There is also a cosy terrace and a bar where you can have a drink, which makes it the ideal place to relax and get some inspiration. I immediately felt welcome here and had another super peaceful night — completely surrounded by art, nature and silence. The biggest plus? That was the hot water! So I was able to start the next morning with a warm outdoor shower.
Day 3: Lost places & breathtaking views
Day 3 really felt like a day of discovery: I passed by a hidden gem that I had wanted to capture on camera for so long. And I discovered one of the most beautiful viewpoints in Belgium!
Halte Royale d’Ardenne – a piece of forgotten royal history
The morning began with an expedition to Halte Royale d’Ardenne – a private train station that was once built to provide access to a luxury resort for royal guests and heads of state. Today, it stands abandoned and mysterious on the banks of the Lesse. Officially, you are not allowed to enter – but you can take beautiful pictures from the air. So it’s ideal if you have a drone with you! Please note: the railway line next to it is still in use, so stay alert.
Tip: It’s best to park in Rue Maupas (Houyet), and from there walk along the Lesse until you see the ruins just inside the forest. From a distance, you will already be able to catch a glimpse of the remaining turret.
Rocher du Bieley – Belgium’s most impressive view
I then drove for about two hours towards the East Cantons, the German-speaking part of Belgium. On the border with Germany, you will find a number of beautiful places (such as Lake Bütgenbach), something that most people don’t know much about!
For me, this was the absolute highlight (literally and figuratively) of the entire road trip through the Ardennes: Rocher du Bieley. I’m not exaggerating when I say that it’s one of the most beautiful viewpoints in Belgium (and I’ve seen many by now). It’s located in German-speaking Belgium, right next to Germany, which makes it extra exciting and surprising.
You can only get there via a military training area (Elsenborn), so be sure to check in advance whether shooting exercises allow it — this is updated weekly, and if it says “NIHIL” in the red zone, it is safe to go.
Practical information:
Start: at Parkplatz Gut Heistert (just across the border with Germany)
Route: short (6 km) or long (16 km); I opted for the short one — it’s impressive enough and can be completed quickly
Difficulty: easy, but be careful on the steep section
Download your GPX route in advance, as the route is not signposted
Did you know? It is sometimes called the “Matterhorn of Belgium” — not because of its size, but because it rises so dramatically. In my opinion, this is somewhat exaggerated, but I understand the comparison!
Overnight stay: Parking Vallée de la Hoëgne
I spent the night 40 minutes further on, in the Vallée de la Hoëgne car park. This is not an official campsite, but spending the night in your van is tolerated. Expect a visit from the forest ranger in the morning, who will come by to check that everything is in order.
I parked my van next to the river and enjoyed a wonderful evening! I wasn’t alone, though, as I was joined by two other vans. Please note that you will have very little connection here. Both mobile network and telephone coverage are difficult.
Tip: only stay here during the week and outside of holiday periods, as the Hoëgne valley is a popular hiking route. You may wake up to a full car park with dozens of hikers leaving.
Day 4: some of Belgium’s most beautiful hikes
You might think that on day 4, I had planned to walk along the Hoëgne river, but nothing could be further from the truth! Instead, I decided to walk a lesser-known but similar route in Solwaster. Followed by what is probably the most popular walking route in the Ardennes!
Hiking along the Sawe – unknown and oh so beautiful
If you are a fan of walks along the Hoëgne or the Ninglinspo, you really must try the walking route along the Sawe. This river is slightly smaller, but just as beautiful. And the best thing? You will hardly meet anyone here. During my 7 km walk, I literally did not see a single other walker. Blissful!
The route starts in the quiet village of Solwaster, where you set off from the church (or park a little further on). Follow the yellow rectangles of walking route 56, which quickly takes you downhill from the village, past meadows and farms towards the Sawe valley.
From there, the real adventure begins: wooden bridges, a small waterfall, boulders to climb over and a path that gradually becomes more rugged. The river becomes wilder, the surroundings greener, and you feel far away from everything for a moment.
📍 Start: Church of Solwaster
🥾 Distance: 1, 7 or 12 km
📱 Signs: yellow rectangles (GPX can be useful)
Ninglinspo – Belgium’s most popular river walk
In the afternoon, I drove on to Sedoz for a walk along the iconic Ninglinspo. This place is now quite well known, and you can tell (don’t come here on the weekend). Nevertheless, it remains one of the most beautiful walking routes in Belgium.
You follow the country’s only real mountain river past waterfalls, natural pools and narrow forest paths. There are wooden bridges, slippery boulders and sections where you have to climb and scramble a bit — especially fun for children!
The loop is about 6 km long and well signposted. I recommend going on a weekday or early in the morning, as it can get very busy here. But despite its popularity, it remains magical even with other people around.
📍 Start: Sedoz car park (Aywaille)
🥾 Distance: ± 6 km
🕓 Duration: ± 2 hours
Sleeping in a farmer’s field
You’ve probably noticed that I avoid busy campsites. It’s not my thing at all, I much prefer the peace and quiet of somewhere in the middle of nowhere! Through Campspace, I found a simple spot in the heart of Haspengouw. No longer in the Belgian Ardennes, but already on my way back to return my van to the owners the next morning. I was parked right next to a pond (not a great idea, given the croaking frogs) and with a view of the horses in the meadow next door.
No shower here, but a clean toilet, power sockets and hot water! That’s all I need.
Day 5: Cleaning & returning
On the last day, there were no more adventures planned, but a little cleaning was needed. I cleaned the van thoroughly inside, took all the stuff out, stopped at the car wash for a quick wash and put everything back in. Then it was time to drive back to Kruisem to return the van to the owners. Not exactly exciting, but no matter how much fun a road trip may be, this part of the trip is often forgotten. 😉
Isn’t this dangerous, travelling alone?
I did this road trip through the Ardennes all by myself. That means I was also alone at all the locations and overnight stops. I never felt unsafe at any point, on the contrary! It’s much easier to connect with others and, besides, I do enjoy some me-time.
For safety reasons, it is important to lock everything at night. I also always looked for places where I could park on someone’s private property, which was booked through an online platform. That minimises a lot of risks.
If you’d also love to rent a campervan & make a road trip like this, you can now get €35 off your reservation at Goboony with the code EMMA35. Enjoy!
Going on a road trip alone in a van? I can only recommend it. It gives you so much freedom and the fantastic feeling that anything is possible. So if you’re still unsure: just do it! Belgium has so much more to offer than you think.
Have you had any experience with a road trip through the Ardennes? Then I’d love to hear your story too! Feel free to leave a message below.
